Buttonhole-sewing machine.



m5. 657,545. Patenited Sept. 11,1900.

W. F. JAGlEL-SKI.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Dec. 28, 1899.

(I0,Modol.) 2 Sheets-Sheet I.

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UNITED STATES 1 PATENT OFFICE.

WLADISLAW FRANCISOUS JAGIELSKI, or HANOVER, GERMANY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER JERSEY.

MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF ELIZABETH, NEW

.BUITTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION formingpart of Letters Patent No. 657.545, dated September 11, 1900.

Application filed December 23, 1899. Serial No."741,4i)9. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WLADIsLA FRANCIS- CUS J AGIELSKI, a subject of the King of Prussia, German Emperor, and a resident of N0. 2 Seilwinderstrasse, in the city of Hanover, German Empire, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification. V

This inventionrelates to a well-known type 'of buttonhole-sewing machine, and has for its object to provide means for stopping the feed-wheel of the machine at any desired point (according to the lengths of the button- :5 holes to be made) when the said feed-wheel is actuated by the attendant, prior to the commencement of a new buttonhole, to bring the clamp into proper sewing position.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure lis a side elevation of a well-known Singer buttonhole-sewing machine provided with my improvements. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the same with certain parts in horizontal section on line 1 2 of Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a sectional front end View of the machine, the section being taken on line 3 4 of Fig. 2. Figs. 4 and 5 are partial plan views of the bed-plate of the machine with the cloth-plate and work- .clamp removed to show some of the underly- 0 ing mechanism. Fig. 6 is a plan view of the feed-wheel with the stopping device therefor properly adjusted for the length of buttonhole being made. Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6, but with the stopping device improperly adjusted, so that the'sewing would commence about the middle of the straight part of the buttonhole; and Fig. 8 is a View similar to Fig. 6, but also showing the stopping device improperly adjusted, so that the sew;

o ing would commence before the buttonholeslit arrived opposite the needle.

Referring to the drawings, A denotes the arm, and B the Work-plate, of the machine, which is provided, in the upper portion of the in the usual manner, so that the needle can,

in cooperation with the loopers, (not shown,) form anoveredge or buttonhole seam, comprising overedge and depth stitches.

. The feed-wheel M is mounted within the bed-plate B upon a hollow stud or axle B, Within which latter are arranged the loopers, (omitted from the drawings for simplicity of illustration.) The feed-wheel is provided with the usual groove m and dog-piece m for actuating the pin a of the clamp-plate a, and which pin o projects from the lower surface of the clamp-plate, passes through the guideslot Z in the clothplate L, and enters the said drivingegroove m. The feed-wheel is also provided upon its upper surface, near the rim, with a series of holes 0 and d. The holes 0 serve to fix upon the feed-wheel'M a campiece 0, which operates at the proper time a spring-actuated lever K in order to uncouple, by means of asuitable coupling orstop-motion device operated by the said leverK, the loose driving-pulley D from the flywheel D, fixed to the main shaft 0, and thus stop the machine. This coupling and uncoupling or stop and start motion device will be described later on. The other series of holes d serve for attaching astop-plate d',having a shoulder or nose (F. In thepat-h of this nose (1 is an upwardly-projecting arm f passing through "a suitable slot 1) in the bed-plate B and carried by or forme d integral with one arm of a bell-crank lever f, pivoted to the bed-plate at f. The other arm of the lever f is connected, by means of a rod f to a hand-lever F, pivoted to the bed-plate at f. By turning this lever F in the direction of the arrow shown in Fig. 2 the bent lever F may be oscillated against the tensionof a suitable spring f and the arm f be thus brought out of the path of the nose d of the stop-plate (1, so that the feed-wheel M will now be free to be rotated by the usual driving-gear.

Upon the bed-plate B ispivoted by a shaft 9 a hand-lever G, the free end of which carries anexchangeable cu ttiug-block G, serving as a counter piece or resistance for the cutter E. The said cutter E is carried byan'arm e of a rock-shaft 6, supported by lugs 6 The lever G is normally heldglifted, as denoted by full lines in Fig. l, by a torsional spring g,

mounted on the shaft 9. Beneath, the bedhand-lever G by a link gflwhile the arm h? projects underneath the cutter-carrying arm ehnd may e een ee ed i h the atter by 3. suitable slotted link 9 When the cutting device just described is at rest, the several parts are in the position shown in full lines in Fig. 1; but when the hand-lever G is depressed against the stress of its spring g into the position shown by dotted lines in Fig. 1 the rock-shaft H will be oscillated and will. by means of its arm 71 lift the arm 6 and the cutter-blade E, respectively, until the latter and the cutting-block G strike upon or against each other, as denoted in Fig. 3 and by dotted lines in Fig. 1. To permit the cutter-blade E to be lifted as described, the feed; Wheel M is provided with a suitable recess or slot m while .the clamp-plate a has a slot 09 Any cloth or fabric spread over the clamp: plate and clamped thereon will therefore be cut by the cooperation of the cutter E and block G when the hand-lever G is forcibly swung down, provided the feed-wheel, cloth.- plate, and clamp-plate are in such position that the recess m the straight portion of slot Z, and the slot a register or coincide.

The clamp-plate a is guided and secured to the cloth-plate L'in the usual manner by the u to e f r the passage of the," nee:

dle N and received in the slot a of the clamps plate. The said button n is carried or sup.- ported by the throatplate n, rernovably mounted in a s a le recess o the ele h p t o hat a fl sh lowe o bo tom. surface of the latter is secured; Forinakingand stitching a buttonh'olefirst the cam-piece c and the stop-plate d (1 must be a ju t d d fixed up n the eed w ee M at the proper places corresponding to the d si ed le gth of the bnt e es to he made. In the example shown the cam c and stoppla'te d d are adjusted for buttonholes ha vinga length of one inch. Then the cloth.

P ate, L is t be. a tached to the b d-P a e B p and the feed-wheel 'M turned uponits axle by means o a han -operat d ra he v ce til a mark m3 of he -whee M i isib e: in the straight portion of the slot Z. (See 7 Fig. 2.) he-ra h de ee may cons st of a hand-lever Ljpivete to the bed-plate at i and carrying atone end a pawl 'i', engaging slot ltheret'iessm of'the feedwheelj is right su a eth ith wh h the r m of the i feedqvheel is provided. As soon as the mark m3 iev e b in t s a gh pertionfef he u d th o h r s a ght p ti n of h Slo 1 en l o ht a ove he eutter bladeiEt "Aft r t a jus m o e ee -whee Mt-he: elamnpl tea ,iepleeed upon the cloth-plate.-

b p tt g t sa d elerhp i h i sl t at upon the button at and by inserting the 'pin q.

n-the 1161612. Th s. position o p r -sis shown in Fig.3; The c oth r ab c t be pro ded .with abuttonhole is then inserted into the lnm'uand lamp hereinin he us a er, hereup n thev require hnttonhole is cut in thesaid fabric by forcibly swinging down the hand-lever G, so as to strike a cutting blow. After the buttonholehas been cut and heentting de iee e urn into its position of rest the pin a of theela'mpplate alis lifted out of the hole I) of the bedplate B and insertedthrough the Slbfllinto the groove m of th feed-wheel M. as indi-- cated in Fig. 4 1 The feed-wheel M is then rotated in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 4,. by means of the hand-operated lever and 3 ratchet device I m *By'this rotation of the feed-Wheel M while the sewing-machine proper remains at restthe clamp and the fabonfine herein are moved toward the center of the feed-wheel in order to present the previouslyecut button-hole. slit in the proper pos tio r ti e t the needlehis proper position 'for commencing the stitching, is attain d a 's as t st pp ete d d2 strikes against the stop-lever f which latter prevents the feed-wheel M frotnanyfnrther rotation by the hand-operated ratchet device.

This position of the parts of the stopping device is shown in Fig, 6, and they maybe inspected through a hole b in the clotheplate. 9? eemtnen g the stitching, first the stopever a m 1 is o be roug ente t pa of the s ep-plat d d an hen. he e in i'nn h e to b set'i motion by c upli g the Pul ey d with t e i ngaf he f rm operationis effected moving the lever F i the di e tio ef'th ar o hewn e andthe latter opera n m y e effected y itet atihg any sh -a e oup ingde iee.- In

th e nnipleshe n I a e n b ed these nati e pos ioned. e-,o11t of th path of the etep=p ate d as in Fig. e his m vemen of. the said lever Fi iill a so pe ate. the 11 pling o s ep a etart metieh evice of t eewing aehine. 1 For thispnrpe e the le er F s provi d witha a m 1?, hie cts upo the none of a bent le er 0 p v ed to t hedmln at ta hedte the lever e is a sl d ng re m unted in a suita le he ri of h jhesi-ulate and cting ga nstth -l wer rm I?" Qf theferked e t Jev pi ed "at 1 we support A of t e a m A.- The eeupthe d rectio d noted] by the a ro n ig; the be t. lever o will be'me ed, nd W l e its tu n p is theslidihgre o Outw d ainst t een n ever, e d l. mo e aid e r. len'it-si ivot'p aga nst thes less efthe Spring By thi mo e nt of sa 'l e he b ak armP is released from the fiy-wheel D,

' Whil the arm P? forces the loose pulley D two de ices, so t hen t e. ev F s m v tobringthe stop-lever arm f in its non-opagainst the said fly-wheel Din order to couple the said pulley with the shaft 0. This coupling or uncoupling mechanism is well known and needs, therefore, no detailed description. When the stitching of the buttonhole is completed and the buttonhole has been barred, the cam acts upon the lever K, suitably connected with the lever 0 which latter has till then prevented the coupling device above described, as well as the stoplever f f from returning to their respective original positions; butas soon as the lever K has been operated by the cam c the lever 0 will be operated, thus moving the rod 0 and thereby uncoupling the loose driving-pulley D from the fly-wheel D to stop the machine, while the movement of the lever F Fby'the lever 0 permits the stop-lever f, by the action of the spring f to be returned from the positiou shown in Fig. 5 to the-position shown in Fig. 2. After the work has been removed from or shifted in the clamp the above-described operations may be repeated in the same order when it is desired to cut and stitch another bu ttonhole.

It will thus be understood that by the use of my adjustable device forstopping the feedwheel M when the same is being rotated by the lever and ratchet device I t" m the said feed-wheel can be brought to any desired position for starting the stitching operation required for any particular length of buttonhole without special care on the part of the attendant, the stop-plate (1 d which is to engage the stop-arm f being set in place on the feed-wheel M for any desired length of buttonhol'e. It will also be understood that the adjustable cam or projection 0 will be so placed on thefeed-wheel as to stop the machine at the proper time, according to the length of the buttonhole being stitched.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is- V 1. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with the work-clamp and the feed-Wheel for moving said clamp, ofa handoperated device for rotating said wheel, a stopping device for arresting the movement imparted to said wheel by said hand-operated device, one part of saidstopping device rorating with said Wheel and being adjustable thereon, and the other part of said stopping device being movable out of the Way of said rotating part;

2. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the

combination with the Work-clamp and the 3. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination wit-h the work-clamp and the feed-wheel for moving said clamp, of a handoperated device for rotating said feed-wheel, a stopping device for arresting the movement imparted to said wheel by the said hand-operated device, and a machine stop and start motion device connected with the said st0p ping device for said feed-wheel, so that when the machine is started the stopping device will be thrown out of action to permit the said feed-wheel to rotate, one part of said feedwheel stopping device being carried by said feed-wheel and being adjustable thereon to accommodate diiferent-sized buttonholes.

4. In a bnttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with the work-clamp, and'the feed-wheel for moving said clamp, of a handoperated device for rotating said feed-wheel, a stopping device for arresting the movement imparted to the said feed-wheel by the said hand-operated device, and a machine stop and start motion device operated from said feed-wheel, to stop the machine, and connected with said stopping device for the said feedwheel; whereby when the stitching of a buttonhole has been completed the machine will be stopped, and whereby also when the machine is started the stoppingdevice for said feed-wheel will be thrown out of action to permit the said feed-wheel to rotate.

5. In a buttonho'le sewing machine, the combination with the work-clamp a, of the feed-wheel M provided with the plate (1 having a nose or projection 61- the lever f having the arm f movable into the path of the said nose or projection (1 a hand-operated device, as lever I, provided with a pawl i, for rotating said feed-wheel, and means, as lever F and rod f for operating the said lever f to remove the said arm f from the path of the said nose or projection (1 when it is desired that the feed-wheel should rotate to carry the said nose or projection 01 past the said arm f In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with the work-clam p, of the feed wheel M provided with the plate (1 having a nose or projection (1 the leverf' having the arm f movable into the path of the said nose or projection (1 a hand-operated device, as

lever I provided with a pawl t", for rotating said feed-wheel, and means, as lever B and rod f for operating the said lever f to remove the said arm f i from the path of the said nose or projection (Z when it is desired that the feed-wheel should rotate to carry the said ICC IIO

nose or projection 61 past the said arm f and a machine stop and start motion device actuated from said feed-wheel, said stop and start motion device being connected with said lever F.

WLADISLAW FRANCISIJUS JAGIELSKI.

Witnesses:

GEORGE NEIDLINGER, A. EGMONT BUSSMANN. 

